Alsace whisky has recently been afforded an official AOC and many consider it the country's best region for the spirit. 'Uberach' is a new release from Jean Metzger whose been producing whisky at the Bertrand distillery for more than a decade. Brass gold in colour, it has a spicy fruit cake lift plus an odd earthy, herbal quality on the nose which is hard to classify. Full bodied, slightly rustic and chewy in the mouth, there's a plummy, musty, grapey, glace cherry character that reminds you of good aged grappa or Eaux de vie. Medium long, sweetening towards the finish, it's the single malt equivalent of abstract art: Difficult to pin down, yet curiously likeable at the same time.